Melbourne

DAY 18

Minh's the King of "Who Is This?"

A quick one hour flight from Adelaide and I made it to my final destination in Australia: Melbourne and soon, the Australian Open.

For most of the players who played in warm-up tournaments up until a few days before the AO starts, yesterday and today is the big travel day to get to Melbourne. And so it happened that a few players were also on my flight and waiting for their luggage at the same belt as I. And this is where I started playing a fun game with Minh half way around the world:

Some players were easy to spot: they had their tennis racquets or Babolat or Head or Volkl bag. Others looked like normal (but very good looking and fit) people until they lifted one Babolat or Dunlop bag after another from the belt.

The first one I saw was sitting in the same row as I on the plane. When he get out, he had a Volkl bag full of tennis racquets. I did not recognize him but was curious who he was. So I figured who better to ask than Minh. I sent him a paparazzi photo (yes, sorry, I was that person) and almost immediately Minh identified him as Hunter Reese, an American player who, as Minh called out, is a dubs specialist and was part of the US United Cup team.

Next up, I just saw a couple of guys with head gear and sent Minh a photo where one had his back towards me and the other you could barely see the side of his face. Minh immediately identified him as Wesley Koolhof, (a top 10 dubs players as he added). He also dates Julia Goerges, who I recognized myself (although for some reason I wrote Petkovic instead of Goerges). Minh was now 2/2.

There was another Dunlop player that I spotted too late to take a picture, but I had 90 minutes to kill so I decided to hang out at the baggage claim to see who else might show up. There was another flight coming in from Adelaide and Sydney, so I figured there was a good chance more players would be on board of those planes. And sure enough, there were.

The third one coming from Adelaide about 50 min later I recognized without Minh's help. The Australian Kokkinakis who I had just seen at the Adelaide tournament Thursday evening.

The fourth one I sent to Minh was another Babolat player. And even that one Minh got right: Michael Venus. He's now 3/3.

I did sent another one that may or may not have been a player but Minh didn't recognize him so I'm pretty sure he was just a random dude I took a photo of lol.

Ordering Beer Is... Complicated

Remember how I wrote earlier that South Australia seems to be a little different than the rest? I now have proof I was right.

Let me back up for a second: I learned in Sydney that beer doesn't come in the same sizes in Australia as in the US. The sizes I found at Bondi were 'schooner' and 'middy'. I had no idea how big each of these would be so I had to ask the server. Basically a middy is a small beer (285ml/10 fl oz) and a schooner is a large beer (450ml/15 fl oz).

Happy that I learned the local speak in Australia, I went to a restaurant on Kangaroo Island and ordered a schooner. However, that turned out to be a tiny beer and I questioned if I got my sizes mixed up. Turns out, I didn't, but Australia has a serious problem with their beers. And here's why:

  • Literally everywhere in Australia a 'schooner' is that 450ml/15 fl oz size I learned about in Sydney. Except in South Australia. Here that size is called 'pint,' and a 'schooner' is only 285ml/10 fl oz.

  • Ok, we all know what a pint is, right? Again, not in Australia. A 'pint' is 570ml/20 fl oz everywhere in Australia, except in South Australia. Here a 'pint' is 450ml/15 fl oz, but an 'imperial pint' is 570ml/20 fl oz, which is a 'pint' everywhere else.

  • It gets even more complicated if you just want a small beer of 285ml/10 fl oz. Because in New South Wales and Western Australia, you would order a 'middy' (yup, I learned about that one in Sydney), in South Australia that's a 'schooner' (yup, learned about that one the hard way in Adelaide), but in Victoria (Melbourne) and Queensland that will be a 'pot.' Yes, you order a pot of beer, which just sounds wrong. Fortunately I'm not heading to Tasmania because here it would be a 'ten' and in the Northern Territory it would be a 'handle'. You need a PhD to order a beer here, I swear.

  • The only thing all of Australia seems to agree on is that a pitcher of beer (1140ml/40 fl oz) is called a 'jug.' Maybe that's why Australians drink a lot of beer, because the only fail-safe size that's consistent everywhere in the country is a 'jug'...

DAY 19

The Adventure Drive to Phillip Island

I say 'infamous' loosely here because now that I've seen it, it's not what the online reviews say it is. The drive from Melbourne and Phillip Island where the famous penguin parade happens every night is about 2 hours. But because the penguins start their parade at sunset, you will have to drive back in the middle of the night, and that's where the 'infamous' comes in. When you read online reviews or blogs about the road, you read that you should not drive this road after dark at all because of all the wildlife hopping or waddling or walking across the road. They say it's much safer to either get a hotel for the night or go with a tour bus who will do the driving for you.

Before I read all of this, I had booked a rental car and was going to do the drive by myself, similar to what I did to Kangaroo Island. But reading up on this drive, it sounded very different from KI so I canceled my rental and booked an all-day bus tour instead. I did get to sit in the passenger seat (prime spot in da house... or bus, yay) and it was way more convenient because you didn't have to drive until after midnight but wildlife on the road? We didn't see any at all and there were fences along almost the entire road, unlike the roads on and from KI. I almost want to go back to see if all the blogs and reviews are sponsored by tour companies now ;-p

Anyhow, so I took the tour and we had a few stops along the way:

Brighton Bathing Boxes

Our first stop was just about 20 min outside of Melbourne at the Brighton Bathing Boxes. Brighton is a rich suburb with large and fancy houses, and these bathing boxes are the main attraction for tourists on the beach. What's so special about these? You can only own one of these if you are a Brighton resident and they come at a hefty price tag of $600k! Over half a million for these glorified storage sheds! It's ridiculous, because that's really what they are: storage sheds. You can paint them however you want but they don't have electricity or water hookups, and you can't rent them out or sleep/live in there. And honestly, some of these looked like they are in desperate need of a fix up and deep clean.

One was open and one of the (presumably) owners was inside. They had put a sofa and coffee table in there but that's about all you can fit besides storing your beach stuff. Apparently our tour guide had only ever seen five of them open since she's been doing the tour. These boxes have become a status symbol of sorts for Brighton residents. In my mind it's a status symbol of wasted money and I question their life choices just a tiny bit.

Moonlit Wildlife Reserve

Our next stop was at the Moonlit Wildlife Reserve where you can see a lot of Australian animals. I got to pet (not hold, because that's not allowed in Victoria) a koala again. Yes, I would do that every day if I could.

Now, I do have a game for you: I'm going to list some speeds and animals below. You have to match the speeds to the running speed of the animal. The speeds are kmh/mph. Ready? Here you go:

  • 30/17, 40/25, 44/27, 50/31, 65/40

  • Emu, kangaroo, koala, Usain Bolt, wombat

The correct answers are at the bottom of this page.

The Nobbies and Pyramid Rock

After another hour's drive, we made it Phillip Island. But the sun was still high up in the sky, and the penguins probably somewhere out there, enjoying the ocean. Maybe even looking at us through the water (the penguin version of peaking through the curtain) thinking "oh look, our audience is getting ready!"

So because we had some time to kill, we made a few scenic stops at Pyramid Rock (the one behind me) and the Nobbies. The Nobbies are rocks in the ocean that serve as home to fur seals who just chill on the rocks all day. What a life!

It was pretty windy here, but honestly I have no idea what these sea gulls were doing. It wasn't nearly windy enough for sea gulls to not be able to move. So those birds were either drama queens, trying to earn our pitty, or they were putting on a show, knowing very well that pretty much everyone who comes to this spot is just waiting for sunset and the real attraction of the day (or night): the penguin parade!

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The Penguin Parade

The highlights of the day (or night) was the penguin parade. Just after sunset, hundreds and hundreds of penguins come ashore on Phillip Island to waddle to their burrows and have a penguin party. No, they don't come here to sleep. They actually sleep in the water for 4 minutes at a time as they float on the surface. Hence their camouflage white bellies (so they look like the sky to sharks and other predators below the water) and blue backs (so they look like water for predator birds above). They leave the water to socialize and party with their fellow penguins, and do some chores like fixing up their burrows or feeding their chicks.

The Little Penguins aka Blue Penguins aka Fairy Penguins are the smallest penguin on earth at just about a foot or 30 cm. They are so adorable and so cute when they waddle across the beach! It's an incredible sight to see and absolutely worth the long drive (or bus tour).

Now, not all penguins come ashore every day. The entire colony is about 40,000 penguins but any one penguin will stay in the water for up to 6 weeks at a time. That's why you never know how many penguins (or which penguins at that) will come ashore at night. The previous night they had 1240 penguins. Yes, there are actually two people whose job it is to count penguins every night. I do wonder if that has the same effect as counting sheep...

Anyway, the penguins gather just off the coast as the sun begins to set and then swim ashore as rafts (that's what you call the group of penguins in the water). Once they are ashore, the groups are called waddles (how cute!). These penguin groups are complete strangers, they don't know each other. Most of the time they start waddling to their burrows as soon as the bravest penguin takes the first step and the entire group will follow. But every now and then you have a group of not so brave penguins and they will just stand on the beach, not daring to waddle across. We had one of those groups and it was the cutest thing to see them take a step forward and then two steps back, chatting amongst themselves about who should go first. They made it eventually but it took them a long time.

Oce shore, they take the same path every time. Either the penguin highway (a smooth and flat pathway next to the human walkway) or the off road track on the other side. A fun story they told us: the human walkway at the old visitor center cut across the penguin highway, so every night, rangers would have to close the human walkway and open a fence multiple times a night to let the penguins pass. When they built a new visitor center to give the penguins more space, they build an underpass for the penguins, but the penguins would show up at the fence every night, waiting for the ranger to open the fence when they could literally waddle a few feet to their right and continue on on their own. The rangers kept opening the fence for a few months but then decided that if they keep doing that the penguins would never learn that there's an underpass. That was 7 years ago and apparently every now then penguins show up at the fence, wait for a few minutes, and then have a light bulb moment and waddle over to the underpass. Must have been a rough day at see for these little guys.

You are not allowed to take any pictures once the first raft comes ashore, so the close-up photos on the right are from the Gorge Wildlife Park. The ones on the beach are the first raft that came ashore, but take a look at this video here to get an idea of how cute this experience was.

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DAY 20

Opening Day at the Aussie Open

The Australian Open is officially underway and I can finally check that one off of my bucket list!

They call this one the Happy Slam, and while I can't point to exactly what it is, I have to agree that it's the happiest I have been to. The atmosphere is just so joyful and happy, it's very different from the US Open or even Indian Wells. The French I've been too was a long time ago but I don't remember this way either. Maybe it's the fact that everyone is on summer holiday aka vacation in Australia right now? Or maybe it's because just like the United Cup in Sydney or the Adelaide tournament I went to, tickets come with free public transportation to and from the event so the fans just sit and relax rather than getting agitated in traffic and while trying to find parking? Or it could be the soothing Aboriginal music that's playing as you walk across the long bridge from the city entrance? I don't know which it is, but I do know it's a happy atmosphere.

The weather was perfect on day 1: A nice 27 degrees, mostly sunny with a few clouds passing through. They actually move the roof too so the fans in the north and south sections are always in the shade. We definitely appreciate that every much, thank you AO!

The matches I had tickets too couldn't have been any better.

I kicked off the AO with third row seats for the day and night session tickets on Rod Laver. I saw Coco Gauff win her match easily at 6:1, 6:4. Then Maria Sakkari entered the arena and won with the exact same score. I actually caught her serve too. It was deflected by Yuan's racquet, bounced off of the center camera, got deflected again by the person in front of me trying to catch it and then it landed on me. By the time I got it, the match had continued and even though I was waiting for a ball kid to look up for the ball after the ralley, they never did. So I kept it as a souvenir. Now I gotta find a frame for is somewhere :)

Next up was the highlight of the day: Nadal v Draper. And what a match that was! You could feel the electricity in the air when Nadal entered Rod Laver arena, and from the first point onwards, it promised to be a phenomenal match. Draper gave his everything and after barely losing the first set 5:7, he took the second set off of Nadal with a 6:2 win. Nadal wouldn't be Nadal though if he didn't turn up his game after losing a set. And sure enough, he took the third 6:4. After an incredible point where Nadal managed to win it despite really losing it twice, Draper started to cramp and could barely move after that. It was a sad ending to an incredible match, but I was excited to witness my first four-set match at a Grand Slam, and having that one be Nadal was like a cherry on top. The final score was 7:5, 2:6, 6:4, 6:1 in 3:41 hours.

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The line-up for the night session was Iga Swiatek against Jule Niemeier. That was a surprisingly good match and two things really stood out to me: One, look at Iga's footwork in the video. She moves so well and hits a lot of the balls so low. Maybe there is something to be said about moving your feet? Two, for most of the match, all stats were in favor of Niemeier: Higher first serve percentage, more aces and fewer double faults. Fewer unforced errors and total points won was often the same. Iga took the match 6:4, 7:5. That must have driven some statisticians crazy :)

The final match of the day was Daniil Medvedev. By the time he came on court, it was already late but the American had no chance whatsoever and the match was over in in just over 90 minutes with a bagel and a bread stick followed by two games in the third.

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DAY 21

A Hot Day 2 at the #AusOpen

After a nice day yesterday, day 2 at the Aussie Open was going to be a hot (and I mean HOT) one. The temperate was forecast to be 38 C / 100 F. I walked around the CBD aka downtown Melbourne in the morning and at 9:30 am it was already 30 C / 86 F. By the time I got back to my AirBnB, it was probably close to 35 C/ 95F and there was no way I was going to sit in that heat. So my plan was to explore Melbourne, then watch from the comfort of my couch in my airconditioned apartment before catching just a set or so of the Zverev match.

Zverev wasn't even supposed to play on Margaret Court where I had day tickets for the day. It was supposed to be Kyrgios, but since he withdrew, they shuffled the schedule around a bit so I woke up in the morning and saw that I would actually get to see Zverev with guaranteed seats. The stars are aligned for this trip for sure!

So, I had just gotten back to my apartment and turned on the Pliskova match. Just as she was starting the second set, the AO implemented the heat policy, which means it got so hot, that all matches on the outside courts were suspended and all stadium matches would continue with the roof closed and the AC cranked all the way up. My signal to head over to the AO!

The walk from my apartment is flat and just about 20 min. But I was exhausted and had drank half of my water bottle by the time I made it to the AO ticketing area. I have absolutely no clue how the players can play a match at the level they play in this heat. And this type of heat happens a lot so that was a good reminder that it's a good thing I'm not good enough to play on the tour. I would hate every minute of it in this heat.

Anyway, I caught the last four games of the Pliskova match and the Zverev came on the court. His opponent had never played at the AO before, but man did he give Zverev a fight. Sascha is just coming back from the horrible injury he suffered during one of the most epic matches ever against Nadal, but besides his second serve, he looked great out there.

After watching my first four setter yesterday, I would get to witness my first five setter today by another of my favorite players. It took Sascha 4 hours and 6 minutes to win the match 4:6, 6:1, 5:7, 7:6 (3), 6:4.

Since the almost five hour Murray vs Berrettini match delayed the start of the night session on Rod Laver, I caught the beginning of Jabeur's match. Her opponent gave her a tough fight, but it was already 10pm by the time they started their third set. I personally don't find her game very exciting, and it was a long three days, so I decided to head back to my apartment instead of sitting through the third set just to see Djokovic. I was going to watch that match in the hopes of seeing him lose anyway, and unfortunately, that was unlikely to happen anyway. Sure enough, it took him 2 hours to win that match with a bagel at the end.

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DAY 22

Throw Back Days in Australia

You can tell that there's (still) a lot of UK and European influence in Australia. Most prominently (from what I can tell in my few days here) in the music that's playing in stores and at the Australian Open. I can't count how many times I've been at a store, or even during changeovers at the AO, when I find myself quietly signing along with a song until I realize that I hadn't heard that song in ages because nobody in the US would know it. Minh may be the only one who can score here but hands up if you immediately recognize these lyrics and can hear the song in your mind. Alternatively, click on the link and immediately close your eyes to hear the song (sorry for the ads):

The entire Rod Laver arena was singing along to this one during the Nadal match: "I don't want to rock, DJ. But you're making me feel so nice. When's it gonna stop, DJ? 'Cause you're keepin' me up all night." Song 1 (fair warning about the visuals at the end though. Oh yea, that was quite a scandal back then).

Heard this one in Sydney and here in stores in Melbourne. One of my favorite songs ever (Simon and Duncan, sigh...). "Your Honor please, gotta believe what I say, what I will tell happened just the other day. I must confess 'cause I've had about enough. I need your help, gotta make this here thing stop." Song 2

"Whatever I said, whatever I did, I didn't mean it. I just want you back for good, want you back, want you back, want you back for good." Song 3 No, I did not call that phone number almost 30 years ago but I do love this song. If you know what I'm talking about, you know.

Yea, this one you would know immediately with these two sentences, or you won't. This one is a coin toss. "Am I supposed to leave you now? When you're looking like that." Song 4.

I haven't heard any of these since I moved the US but immediately remembered all the lyrics as if I listen to them every day... And now I have them looping in my head literally all day. My souvenir from Australia...

Oh, and did I mention that they have Aldi in Australia? Not the weird version you find in SoCal but the real Aldi with the real Aldi experience. And before you ask: yes, of course I had to go get my groceries at one.

That View...

You know that time when the lottery is up to $1B, you buy a ticket and fantasize about what you would do with the money if you win? I felt like I won the lottery for a few days when I walked into my AirBnB in Southbank, Melbourne.

Take a look at that view from literally every square inch of the place. It's incredible. It's a corner unit, too so I have a roughly 180 degree view of the CBD aka downtown and the Melbourne skyline. The Yarra River is just a couple of blocks away and the Australian Open is a quick 20 min walk.

The absolute best view is from the master bedroom. How you are supposed to fall asleep or get out of the bed in the morning with that incredible view is beyond me. Quite frankly, it feels surreal walking into this place even three days into my stay. Today is a rainy day and I'm honestly perfectly happy just sitting on the bed and taking in that view for the last full day I have here in Australia.

This apartment is hands down the best grand finale for the most epic trip of my life.

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The Infamous Melbourne Hook Turn

Yes, I already had one entire post dedicated to buying beer in Australia. And here's another one, dedicated to one of the weirdest traffic rules I have come across: the hook turn.

Keep in mind that everything is backwards here since you drive on the left side in down under. So when I talk about turning right, it's really like turning left everywhere else in the world.

Just like Sydney and Adelaide, the public transportation system here in Melbourne is top notch. It's easy to get anywhere by bus or tram, it's reliable, clean and free (yes, free!) in the CBD, which is the downtown area. Did I mentioned that event tickets come with free public transportation to and from the event? Imagine the US or Germany adopting that...

Anyway, I mentioned this because the hook turn is a way to give trams the right of way and prevent right turning cars from blocking the tram tracks. The idea makes sense, but here's how the hook turn works: to turn right, you first get into the far left lane. No, that's not a typo, you drive in the far left lane to turn right. Then you drive into the intersection and pull over on the left (yes, you go even further left than the far left lane), basically blocking the cars in the cross traffic lane. You hang out there while the other cars and trams behind you pass you. You wait and wait until your light turns red and the cross traffic light turns green. That's when you make your right turn just as the cross traffic starts going straight right behind you.

Sounds complicated? Watch the video and see if you can figure it out. It was entertaining to watch, especially when there was someone who didn't know how it works and the locals got annoyed at the clearly non-Melbournians driving on their streets. I think I would rather make three left turns instead of one hook turn if I was driving here.

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DAY 23

Goodbye, Down Under

It feels like a lifetime ago when I got on the plane in OAK to depart on my adventure Down Under. And now it's time to say goodbye to Melbourne, to Australia, to Down Under and to a trip of a lifetime.

And what better way to say goodbye than to catch up with a formerly and now-again local. It's been ages since we worked together (or so it seems) but I'm glad I got to meet Michael in his old new home, Melbourne, for lunch. And thanks to Michael, I felt adventurous and tried kangaroo for lunch. Yes, it took a strong will to not think about the cute kangaroos and how they came hopping towards me, how they let me feed them. But I was assured that it's a sustainable and not an offense to serve kangaroo, and I almost hate to say it, but it tastes very good! Much leaner than steak, less fat. If I were to live in Australia, I think this would be part of my diet on a regular basis.

I'm glad I didn't leave without trying this. Just like Tim Tams, pure chocolate indulgence, and it's the originals for the win. Vegemite on the other hand, even in a tiny, tiny dose... yea I won't be missing that.

It doesn't happen very often that I visit a new country (or city for that matter) and get the feeling that I could live here. But that was definitely the case with Australia, and Sydney and Melbourne in particular. Maybe one day I get to live here, maybe not forever but for a few months at a time? Who knows, but I will definitely be back.

And so I waved goodbye to Melbourne on my flight to Sydney, and then waved goodbye (for now) to Australia as my plane took off at 9pm on Thursday... but befittingly for a trip of a lifetime, I got to relive Thursday one last time, because my flight would arrive in Honolulu just after 10am that same day. Read what it's like flying back in time.

Sigh, tomorrow I'm heading back home, again, via an overnight stay in Honolulu. I can't believe this trip is coming to an end. It's bittersweet saying goodbye to Down Under. Time flies when you're having a trip of a lifetime, but I know one thing for sure: It won't be long before I'm back.

Answers to the Speed of Animals Game:

  • A koala can run as fast as 30 kmh /17 pmh

  • A wombat doesn't look like it but they can run up to 40 kmh /25 mph

  • Usain Bolt can barely outrun a wombat at 44 kmh /27 mph

  • The emu us the fastest bird on earth with a top speed of 50 kmh / 31 mph

  • And the fastest Australian animal is the kangaroo which can hop at up to 65 kmh / 40 mph

How many did you get right?